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Plane Passion

by Jessica Grimwood - Jul 27th 2010
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My experience as a competing female surfer and learning how to shape surfboards.

My favorite surfers all come from the 60's and 70's, the era that surfers shaped their own crafts. Guys like MR (Mark Richards) George Greenough and MP (Michael Peterson) are all unparalleled with their abilities in the water and in the shaping bay. Their grasp of the concepts of design and the relationship created between board and wave are seemingly instinctive. They were the masters of the ocean and their equipment.

I feel that those days have long passed and surfers have become lazy. Where there was once foam blizzarding from a single stroke of an arm now stands robotic metal plates and high-tech machines.

These personalities and talents from the 60's and 70's prompted my hunger and curiosity to understand surfboards on a deeper level. I wanted to learn how to shape my own crafts and ride them how I feel they should be ridden.

I have always been curious of this mystical skill that shapers hold, to be able to translate a surfers spiritual and personal experience with the ocean, into foam.

I have always fantasized about being able to shape, but I have never understood the design concepts, tools or steps involved in the process of shaping. Nor have I found it easy to forge relationships with all the middle aged men who make my boards.

I could never seem to get that mutual understanding with a shaper. I always felt that my ignorance for the craft left me lacking confidence and prohibited me from expressing what I really thought I was looking for in a board. My current shaper Vanda, happens to be the exception to this. Our relationship as surfer and shaper is exactly what I have been working towards. He has become someone who I can easily communicate with about what we are collaborating to create.

Up until now I did not know any female shapers, nor did I hear of any regularly. Every now and then a few names pop into the scene with stories of shaping boards and pictures of their attempts, but I am unaware of a prominent and well known craftswoman as such. Last year however, I was introduced to a surfer and cabinet maker by the name of Leslie, who also shaped beautiful wooden surfboards. I can best describe Leslie in these three words: Master Crafts-Woman. Yes! Woman!

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