Underground Big Wave Charger: Bijou Busse

You know those days on Hawaii where you head into pearl ridge to go shopping because the swells lapping over the road down by Foodland? Well this chick’s the one high-tailing around looking for a ski or grabbing the biggest board she can find.

I know Bijou has the desire, talent and determination it would take to be a one of a very select few who would chase the globe in the search of huge swells pushing herself and women’s surfing into a whole new realm. It seems this route for a big-wave female surfer is about as hard to follow as a year on the WQS without a sponsor. If there was anyone out there willing to throw Bijou that rope I KNOW she would grab it. Until then she will remain as underground as she is towing into monstrous beasts without photographic evident most of us love to aspire and admire.

How you doing? What’s been happnin??
Haven’t been up to much just kickin it, head over the states next w/e so that should be fuun..

Bijou word on the street is you’re a bit of a charger?


Haha, I have a go.

You followed the QS for a while right, how did that go?
Yes that’s right; it was a really good experience. I got to travel around the world, see new places, meet new people and all up had a great time.

Did you feel you weren’t really following your real passion of chasing big waves?
Yes, as much as I enjoy contest surfing and all of the fun that comes with doing the tour my heart wasn’t fully in it. I find the big wave stuff much more challenging and rewarding

What’s the biggest wave you have gone?
Three or so times overhead

What’s the biggest wave you want to go?
Each session I aim to go bigger than the last, to continually push myself to go bigger and better.

Paddle or tow?
I like doing both. Paddling for breaks like pipe, but I’d generally have to say tow.

Do you have a tow partner?
Not at the moment, but I’m in the market for one

Do you think you could ever find a chick that you could trust and tow each other in start a chick charging G next?
Yeah for sure, but there would defiantly have to be a lot of trust and commitment within the partnership.

Boards? Whats your quiver look like?
Quiver consists of boards from 6’0 up to around 7’0, tow board included

Would you go Mavericks? Jaws?
Mavericks, jaws- Yes I’d like to. But I think with any new break you can’t just go gun- ho like you own the place. You have to start from the bottom and work your way up. Gaining experience and respect as you progress.

Pull into 15 foot chopes(Tehapoo)?
It’s defiantly a goal of mine

You planning on any big wave surf trips in the future?
I head over to the states in a couple of weeks, going over to the east coast, hoping to score some hurricane swells and then head over to the north shore of Hawaii for some winter action.

I know you surfed pipe a bit last winter, how was that?
Yes it was awesome; it’s an amazing wave. I have some memorable experiences from it.

A couple of days got solid, did you get scared out there?
Yeah it got pretty large, I defiantly spent my fair share of time in the channel haha. But it was a good kind of fear. Just being out there and experiencing the raw power of the ocean made me want it to be a part of it and to get better at surfing it

Do you ever get scared?
YES I certainly do. 

How about a hold down? Are you scared of that? Have you had any good ones where you thought you might not come up?
Yeah the thought of the hold down is defiantly enough to scare you! But when it’s actually happening you have let go and realize that you aren’t in control. Try and relax and believe that you’ll come back up.

Hahaha yep I have had some real good ones. Not long ago I had a session out at a bombie near home. It was kind of size-y, my friend pulled me into one and as I was heading down the face, I looked down the line and realized that it was going to shut down, so I looked behind me to see if I could go right but it wasn’t looking any better so I pulled in anyway. I copped the lip on the head, got driven then sucked back over the falls. After numerous back flips and some time pinned on the bottom I resurfaced. When I did I realized that my life vest was missing it had been ripped off me, then in that moment the next wave hit me on the head after another working I got pulled out of the impact zone. That was the last wave of the session; I spent a week or so out of the water due to muscle tears.

Are you injury free? Do you think big wave surfers get more injuries?
Yep I’m pretty much injury free, a couple hard beatings but nothing too serious.
I think there is defiantly more potential to get worse injuries, due to the extreme nature of the sport.

Do you do any specific training to prepare?
Yeah I pump the iron and flaunt my guns at the gym! Hahaa
No I try and keep a good level of fitness. Running, bike riding, boxing, core work, yoga and swimming/ underwater work. Eg lung busters in the pool.

Would you consider yourself fit? Do you think you have to be fit and strong to surf big waves?
Yes it is something that I constantly work at. 
I don’t think you HAVE to be, but I defiantly, I think a good level of fitness and strength will work in your favor.

Most people including myself think you have a bit of a screw loose, mentally what makes you tick to want to go surf these huge waves?
Hahaha yeah I don’t know, perhaps I inherited the thrill seeker gene or something??
seriously.. When you are out in the ocean when its big there is just so much power and energy, it gets your heart racing. When you take off on a big one or when you let go of the rope, just for a few seconds you are totally and completely living in the moment, it’s a feeling like no other. It’s addictive.

Do you think you can make living surfing big waves?
Yes I do, as a young woman who surfs big waves I think I’ve got a bit of a niche. Hopefully it will result in a successful career.

I know a few chicks get a bit of coverage out of it guess it’s all about having a camera on hand 24/7
Yes that so true, you can catch all the waves that you want. It’s good to build your surfing level but at the end of the day it’s the ones that get caught on camera that will make your career.

How about Layno charging ours, did that shit make you psyche up?
Yeah that was pretty impressive, but it defiantly pumped me up to go bigger

Thanks B any last words mate, shout outs or anything else you want to add feel free.
My pleasure, any time! I would just like to shout out to RE GOLD Management, O&E supply good tow gear Cre8tevision is the goods!